Natural Hair & Braiding Deregulation: A Threat to Black Women's Health
For over two decades, I have witnessed the transformative power of hair care done right. However, in the wake of the deregulation of natural hair and braiding licenses, a dangerous trend, is threatening the health and safety of Black women across the nation. Their scalps and overall wellness are on the line.
There is a rhetoric being pushed by the Institute for Justice and those that claim braiding is a cultural art form passed down from generation to generation is deemed safe because it avoids harsh chemicals. As a licensed professional, this message is misleading, exploitative, and absolutely false.
Currently 33 states, the most recent - Pennsylvania agreeing to exempt hair braiders from regulatory oversight have deregulated natural hair and braiding. For those that believe these agendas are being pushed by white legislators are surely mistaken there has been a plethora of Black women who have pushed for deregulation not truly realizing the impact it has on the entire natural hair industry.
Now that texture is being introduced across the country into cosmetology there is a bigger push for deregulation. Natural hair care is an 8.7 billion dollar industry that stands on its own and should be respected as such a part from cosmetology. Just because texture has been introduced, it does not cover the nuances and complete scope of practice that is natural hair care and braiding. As this is another rhetoric being pushed to justify deregulation, its in cosmetology now so we don’t need to have a separate license, which is furthest from the truth.
What is being overlooked is untrained hands and lack of education are causing lasting harm. I’ve witnessed firsthand the devastating impact of poor braiding and hair care practices. Traction alopecia, a severe form of hair loss, plagues our community due to the use of heavy hair fibers, over manipulation of the strands, trying to catch all of the edges which then cause excessive pulling that inflame the hair follicles, leading to scarring and permanent damage.
There have been numerous consumer complaints and testimonies of ripped out edges and poor hair care experiences from braid shops across the nation, it is an experience that goes unspoken until it happens to you, then you begin to hear the silent horror stories in open forums like reddit. Yet the agenda is to deregulate. How does this ensure the consumer is protected against hair trauma? Not only does it impact them physically it also impacts their mental and emotional wellbeing.
I do believe that natural hair and braiding is a cultural cornerstone and an economic engine. But to suggest these services don’t require basic hair care and sanitation knowledge is asinine. Salons I have visited over the years are breeding grounds for infection, with shared tools and zero regard for hygiene. The conditions of these spaces are public safety concerns. Why do Black women have to settle for this type of experience, especially if they are paying a premium. It is insulting to think that this should be an acceptable environment for women to be paying top dollar for a service and nine out of ten they are coming with their hair already washed and prepped for service. Are we not deserving of better conditions and an over all service experience?
It boils down to, like most things in this capitalist society - MONEY! Deregulation is a money grab disguised as empowerment and used as a scapegoat for the real push of the deregulation of a thriving industry - immigration and labor law issues within the African Immigrant Communities.
Hundreds of dollars are paid for services that leave scalps ravaged. I’ve spent countless hours repairing the sometimes irreversible damage of “cultural art” that blatantly ignores the consumers most basic needs - proper scalp and hair care. Skill is one thing, knowledge about the science of hair is another and deregulation highlights the lack.
I say don’t be fooled by the misinformation of organizations that push deregulation that prioritize profit over consumer safety. Their “consumer freedom” narrative is a cruel joke! It should make you wonder - are Black legislators inadvertently harming the women they serve, or are they fully aware of the consequences of their actions? Who lines their pockets, click here to learn about who funds your politicians.
Licensing is not a burden or a barrier it is a shield of protection to ensure stylists are trained in sanitation and proper hair care practices. Protecting clients from infections, disease, allergic reactions and hair loss. It elevates the profession promoting consistent quality, credibility and trust with the consumer.
It also empowers stylists by creating various pathways for their careers, the ability to get loans, and higher earning potential. It also validates a historically undervalued skillset that allows natural hair care and braiding experts to thrive independently and with dignity.
Deregulation disrespects the cultural significance of natural haircare and braiding in the U.S., it erases the expertise passed down through the transatlantic slave trade and ignores the discriminatory past of licensing that marginalized Black practitioners. It also silences the mountains the Natural Hair industry has moved beyond the barriers it's faced time after time.
It also forces a narrative of us against them, us being American born natural hair stylists and braiders v. African braiders from the diaspora. The us against them concept completely supports the mission of libertarians that focus on low hanging fruit to push their agendas.
We deserve better, stylists who understand the science of hair and prioritize scalp health and hair care deserve clean, safe environments. We deserve stylists that view natural hair and braiding as not just a “cultural art” form, but as a form of care!
Upholding licensing solidifies a standard and protects Black women from becoming victims of a system that prioritizes profit over our well-being. It’s a fight for safety, dignity, and the health of our hair, our bodies, and our community.
The question we should all walk away with is why is our hair so important that an all white organization is so vested? I challenge you to go and research those vested in our hair while exploring the history of our hair and what it means to this country. Our hair has been politicized, weaponized, and removed from our heads as a form of cultural erasure. Deregulation further confirms nothing has changed!
Let us not forget!
Resources:
https://www.inquirer.com/business/natural-hair-braiding-deregulation-legislation-20240715.html
https://ij.org/issues/economic-liberty/braiding/#:~:text=Natural hair braiding is a,and do not cut hair.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Naturalhair/comments/11c67ug/african_braider_experience_yall_im_so_upset/?rdt=57322
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